I've found a bunch of discussion about putting a jib on the standard sprit rig, but has anyone actually done it? Can anyone give me some feedback on installing the passagemaker rig on the skerry?

I'm planning on starting my Skerry in the next six months or so, and I'm trying to decide on the rigging. On the one hand, I love the passagemaker gunter-sloop rig, but I'd be just as happy with a jib added to the sprit rig (if it works). Any advice?

I know John C. Harris has mentioned that there have been Skerry builders who have installed Passagemaker sail rigs, and vice-versa, with good results. I would think the Passagemaker rig-to-Skerry would be the easier of the two conversions. You will only have to drill a couple small holes in the trailing edge of the front seat in order to fasten down the mast step plate with wingnut bolts as is done in the Passagemakers. It might require, during construction, installation of the step support structure underneath the seat as Passagemakers have. Add a couple eyestrap brackets for the backstays, and you are good to go. On Passagemakers, the mainsheet runs through blocks on the boom and is tied off to handles in the stern transom. Skerry builders have to be inventive to rig an equivalent arrangement. Also, the Passagemaker jib leach (and forestay, if used) is tied to a bow transom knee. Do Skerrys have some similar hard point up front?

On the flipside, putting a Skerry rig in a Passagemaker would involve a little more alteration. I'm thinking such things as fabricating the mast step and socket necessary for the unstayed rig.

Thanks for the input. I am leaning toward the gunter-sloop option. Just to clarify, the other option I'm considering is putting a jib on the standard skerry rig, not the sprit on the passagemaker.

Brian,
I have also decided to put a jib on the standard sprit rig. I like the sprit rig because of its simplicity and I believe John and others are right when they say that it is great just the way it is. However, I like the way the jib looks and I have drawn a 16 sq ft jib on my blueprint that I think will work, while keeping with the simple design philosophy of the Skerry. The mast will remain unstayed.

Basically I will attach a bronze padeye at the bow and attach the clew of the jib to it with a snap shackle. The jib halyard will be attached tight to the luff and extend up to a fairlead near the masthead and lead down to a cleat on the forward face of the mast (probably a jam cleat). The jib sheets will route through fairleads on the port and starboard rails just aft of the mast and then to jamcleats on each rail aft of the center seat within easy reach of the helmsman.

I am going to test this rig with a jib made of bluetarp from Lowe's. If it works I'll take the pattern to a real sailmaker. If not, I am only out the cost of 3 fairleads and 3 jam cleats. The bronze padeye was going to be installed anyway.

I'm building the boat at the Wooden Boat School, at CLC in Annapolis, April 21-26. I hope to finish out and launch by early summer. I'll let you know how it works.

I think it would be possible to put a jib on the standard sprit rig, all be it the centre of effort may be moved well ahead of the centre of lateral resistance. In short, this could give some bad lee helm which should always be avoided in a small boat. My concern with doing it on the unstayed mast would be that the mast will bend forward significantly. Even if one achieved a tight luff, any gust of wind may bend it further forward creating a saggy luff. If the jib was only used to increase sail area in very light winds however, I don't think this should be a problem. Otherwise a couple of stays raked slightly aft should counter any significant flex.

I have considered doing this on my skerry but for the time being have decided to leave well alone. If I was to go ahead I think a new mainsail would be in order to ensure the rig was well balanced.

Does anyone else have practical experience of any of these issues?

Thanks Gideon. I think you have good advice about the center of effort and lee helm and backstays. I have had similar comments from friends who race and they say words to the effect "If you are going to add a jib you need to add a forestay and backstays, extend the boom and the peak, run the main sheet from the stern over the tiller bar, . . .etc, etc." (Or just invest in the passagemaker rig and be done with it.)

It doesn't take long before the simplicity is gone, which is what attracted me to the boat and sprit rig in the first place. Here's hoping I can get the skerry in the water this season and try it like it was designed. Maybe I'll experiment next season. Or not.